Fontange

Fontange is a term that refers to a specific type of woman's hairstyle and the headgear that supported it, popular during the late 17th century and early 18th century in Europe. The fontange is named after the Marquise de Fontange, a mistress of King Louis XIV of France, who is credited with introducing this fashion. According to popular legend, the Marquise de Fontange went hunting with the King and, having lost her hat, she improvised a head decoration by tying her handkerchief around her head with a ribbon. The King found this appearance charming, and it quickly became a fashion among the ladies of the court.

Description

The fontange consisted of a series of ruffles and lace arranged over a wire or stiff fabric frame that was worn on top of the head. The height and complexity of the fontange varied over time, with some early versions being relatively modest and later ones becoming increasingly elaborate and tall. The hairstyle underneath often involved the hair being piled up on the head in curls and waves, adding to the overall height and grandeur of the look.

Cultural Significance

The fontange is more than just a historical fashion statement; it reflects the social and cultural dynamics of its time. The adoption of the fontange by the women of the French court and its spread across Europe is indicative of the influence of French fashion and culture during the reign of Louis XIV, known as the Sun King. The elaborate nature of the fontange also speaks to the wealth and status of those who wore it, as only those with the means could afford the materials and the servants necessary to create such complex hairstyles and headgear.

Decline

By the early 18th century, the fontange began to fall out of favor, replaced by simpler hairstyles and headgear that reflected changing tastes and the influence of new ideas about elegance and simplicity that were spreading through Europe. The decline of the fontange can be seen as part of a broader shift in fashion and culture during this period.

Legacy

While the fontange is no longer worn today, it remains an iconic example of baroque fashion and is often referenced in historical accounts of the period. Its rise and fall illustrate the transient nature of fashion and the ways in which hairstyles and clothing can serve as expressions of cultural and social identity.